.. Though the country is so barren, the lake has its beauties in the varied tints of surrounding hills and mountains, and the rich deep blue of its waters, becoming quite of an emerald green colour as they shallow near the shore.*

Once in a while during your travels, you come across a place that is different from everything else you’ve ever experienced. It captivates your imagination and the mind, already lured away from the monotone of routine, is suddenly unshackled and left free. As the body relaxes and somehow starts breathing differently, every whiff of fresh air invigorates you, like never before. This strange sense of absolute bliss and tranquility etches out memories that stand out not much unlike flame trees in full bloom. For once, you feel truly alive.

The Pangong Tso is one such place. It throws out all the undulating hype that has been building in your brain from weeks of anticipation. Only words can do it even a modicum of justice, and since I won’t attempt the sacrilege, I will depend on a few photographs to lend the narration some respect.

First view of Pangong Tso
To think, that having seen countless photos of the place, you’d not be awestruck is a sheer understatement; for at the first glimpse you are left wondering whose brush has unleashed this piece of art. From afar, when you first sight the cobalt blue waters, it looks magical. From up close, it is otherworldly.

.. a fine view of the first long reach of this elevated and interesting piece of water is obtained. Its colour is of an intense blue, the water as clear as crystal, but far too saline to be drinkable; there was quite a true salt water feel in the air as the wind blew off it.*

To see it in a photograph or read about it in a book is different. But to be able to witness the changing colors and the natural play of light and shadows, to hear the gentle waves lapping at the shores, to ignore the cold wind biting against your skin while breathing in the rarefied air; is a privilege – one that is not meant to be forgotten.

Spangmik
You can opt to stay farther away in Tangste. Or you can choose to camp on the banks of the Pangong lake. The choices vary from Lukung, which is to the west of the lake; to Spangmik seen here, where we stayed or further east at Man-Merak village. In either case, good woollens, mufflers, balaclavas and mittens are highly recommended since the temperature often dips below freezing point at night.

Daytime temperatures near the Pangong Tso are not much of a botheration. But in the evening, the temperature drops rather quickly into single digits. What makes it unbearable is the ferocious wind. The wind chill makes a bearable 10 degree Celsius feel like sub freezing. The cold penetrates exposed skin and soon, the nerves start tingling due to the numbness. The wind makes the ears scream in pain, the cold makes the nose weep too.

At night, the wooden walls of our cottage provide minimal respite. Outside, we can hear other tents flapping in the wind. Inside, our drinking water becomes too cold to be drinkable, and any contact with unheated water is like sifting through a sack of needles. The mink blanket and quilt feels like heaven, but that is only after you’ve put on 4 layers of clothing. Getting out of bed once you’re tucked in, is unthinkable.

In spite of all this, I do step out at night, briefly, to take a look at the starlit skies above. The milky way is not as crystal clear as made out to be, but the sky does seem darker and the stars by contrast, brighter. The wind protests against my intrusion in its space, and soon forces me inside. For a couple of tourists though, liquor and a bonfire prove adequate. Pangong is at a considerable altitude, and none of us sleep well at night.

Himalayan wooden cottages at Pangong Tso
The morning dawns with the sun bathing everything in glorious golden light. It is a relief to step out into the warmth. Even the incessant wind seems to have tired. There is fresh snow on the mountains behind Spangmik, and the peaceful quietude is only interrupted by the sea gulls flying by, seemingly the happiest to see us.
Ponies in Pangong
Almost a scene from a western. Our ‘man with no name’ here, is taking his ponies to the famous crescent of Pangong, where tourists can take a joy ride. This one also turned out to be one of my favorite images from the lot.
Pangong and snow capped peaks
One of the few reasons I chose to come to Ladakh in June, lower airfares notwithstanding, is that I wanted to see these peaks against the backdrop of Pangong, covered with a generous sprinkling of snow, and to taste a  milder version of the harsh winters that frequent these parts, at which time, Tashi adds knowingly, it is possible to drive over the completely frozen lake.
Morning at Pangong
Friends here, strolling and enjoying the isolation. A morning is probably the best time to enjoy the Pangong’s scenes. Most tourists simply opt for a day trip, which, to be honest, doesn’t do their efforts to have come this far any justice.

The roads that lead to Pangong Tso overlook small ravines that gradually open up to a wider expanse of land covered with silt, sand and rounded pebbles – no doubt the remnants of a dried water body and also revealing the ancestry of the lake.

The origins of Pangong
It is a widely accepted fact that the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which led to the formation of the vast Himalayan range, is also responsible for the formation of a salt water lake like Pangong, scooped out from the waters of the Indian ocean. It is also an Endorheic lake, meaning a basin of water from which there is no outflow to other water bodies like rivers.

The Chinese are said to have captured the entire Pangong Tso in the 1962 war, after which a third of the entire area was reclaimed (or surrendered) to India. Tashi pointed out a few minefield ridden areas to the southwest of the lake that was still cordoned off, instances of grazing animals sometimes wandering into these areas and getting blown up are not that uncommon.

Western Pangong
Our man with no name, taking his patrons for a ride on the ‘spit‘, the famous shooting location for a Bollywood film ‘3 idiots‘.
Pangong to Tokyo
One last image. Emblematic of hope. And also a reminder of how far we have to go as a species. Because traveling to these lands requires funny stamps on papers that have to be certified by some people as uniquely belonging to you. When will we be truly free ?

* Extracts taken from  Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Volume 37

We stayed at the Himalayan Wooden Cottages for a night. Stay options are plenty, but if you are finicky about the cold weather, you can check out stays built out of concrete rather than the tents or wooden rooms available. Do remember to take a hat or cap, sunscreen is of minimal use during the day when the sun beats down relentlessly.

-Conclusion of the Ladakh series-


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7 thoughts on “Postcards from Pangong Tso

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